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July 2007 Gardening Q&A
No easy answers for emerald ash borer
 B. Rosie Lerner
Purdue Extension Consumer Horticulturist
Q: I live in southeast Indiana. From what I can gather from the Purdue Web site, the emerald ash borer has not yet come this far south. About five years ago, I planted 160 ash trees. I assume the insect will eventually get here. If I have to treat the trees every year it will certainly be a expense of both time and money. What are your thoughts? On the other hand, if I treat my trees will the EAB eventually leave once they have done all the damage they can do in a given area? – John Lawyer, Ripley County
A: I’m sure there are many folks wondering the same thing, whether they have just one tree or a plantation like yours! It is, of course, difficult to know when and where emerald ash borer will go, but it is likely that over the years it will make its way down to your area since it is already as close as Indianapolis and some nearby Ohio counties. On its own, it only moves about one half mile or so per year.
But unfortunately, humans have greatly assisted this pest’s travel plans by moving ash firewood, logs, and nursery stock.
The Purdue Entomology Web site, http://www.entm.purdue.edu/EAB/index.shtml, has several resources to help you assess your situation including a map indicating the counties where it has been positively identified, a chart to help you assess whether prevention is feasible, as well as strategies for preventing EAB infestation. For a large planting such as yours, you might also want to consult with your Indiana DNR district forester. Contact information is available at http://www.state.in.us/dnr/forestry/.
Q: I read your article in the February 2007 issue of Electric Consumer with great interest. These are problems that have plagued my tomato plants for the last several seasons. I want to try the fungicides you suggested. Where can I buy chlorothalonil and mancozeb? — William C. Witherspoon, Linton, Ind.
A: Both of these fungicide products should be available at your local garden supply store. Chlorothalonil is sold as Daconil 2787, Multipurpose Fungicide, Bonomyl, or Funginil. Mancozeb may be sold as manzeb, Dithane, or Fore. Several different companies may formulate these fungicides, including but not limited to Dragon, Bonide, Fertilome and Ortho. Always read the label before you purchase and/or apply.
Q: I have a lilac bush I started from a “slip” from my sister several years ago that has never bloomed. It is growing leaves and is beautiful, but no blooms. What do I need to do? – Rita Nash
A: There are a number of reasons why a plant might fail to bloom. The most common factors are plant age, sunlight, plant nutrition, winter temperatures, and improper pruning.
You didn’t indicate how many years ago you started, but I would expect a “slip” (start from a stem cutting) to take 3-5 years before flowering, assuming that all other factors are favorable for flowering. The plant needs to grow new roots and shoots before it can spare the carbohydrates to support flowering and seed production.
If this new plant is more than 5 years old, I would look to some of the other factors. Lilacs flower best in full sun, and their flowering is delayed if overfertilized with nitrogen. Lilacs bloom on last year’s growth, so if pruned any time between late summer and the following spring, the flower buds will be removed.
And finally, this year many Indiana lilacs were hit by the big freeze in mid-April. Many plants had started to break bud due to earlier warm weather only to be zapped by several days of hard freeze. If this is the case with your plant, it may make a good comeback next year.
Q: I have a problem with my muskmelon. The problem arrives when the vines are fully grown and the fruit is in various stages of development. Overnight, the vines wilt and hopes for a melon are gone. Can you offer a solution?
A: The most likely culprit is bacterial wilt, a disease that clogs up the water conducting tubes that in turn causes irreversible wilting. The bacteria is transmitted to the plant by cucumber beetles (both striped and spotted types) as they feed on the foliage. Once the plant is infected with the bacteria, there is no cure. Infected plants should be removed.
There are a few cultivars of cucumbers that are resistant to bacterial wilt but none yet in melons. So the only hope is to prevent the cucumber beetles from feeding.
Early-season use of floating row covers can help reduce beetle feeding, but covers will need to be removed when plants are blooming to allow bees to pollinate. Yellow sticky-cup traps can reduce beetle feeding if placed around the borders or about every 20 feet within the row, and replaced as needed when they are no longer sticky.
A promising new product called “Surround At Home” contains fine kaolin clay particles as the active ingredient. Neem oil is also labeled for beetle control on melons. More traditional insecticides that are labeled for cucumber beetle control on melons include carbaryl (very toxic to bees) and methoxychlor (less toxic to bees). Always read and follow label directions before applying.
Written By: eceditor
Date Posted: 6/26/2007
Number of Views: 455
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